Lawry's The Prime Rib

It was not too long ago that red meat in general, and beef in particular, was given a bad press — often criticised as being high in fat and cholesterol content. More recently, however, some scientific evidence has emerged to suggest that beef may have been unjustly maligned. Beef is not only a rich source of good quality protein but also of creatine, the consumption of which is now believed to improve one’s strength and vitality.

Lawry’s (pronunced to rhyme with ‘dowries’), located at #02-03, Paragon, 290 Orchard Road, is an establishment where, arguably, beef can be enjoyed at its purest best. The house specialty is roasted prime ribs of beef. I found the beef to be one of the juiciest and most flavourful I have tasted in a long while. Undoubtedly, this has a lot to do with the fact that only the finest US Prime Grade beef is used in the preparation of the dish and even then, it is first aged for up to three weeks and then gently roasted on beds of rock salt, a process designed to force the juices of the meat inwards during cooking so that the beef will not dry out. The end result is deliciously succulent beef which diners may elect to savour in one of four cuts, according to size and thickness.

It would be quite remiss of me if I were to make no mention of the wonderful Yorkshire pudding, included with an order of prime rib, together with salad and mashed potatoes. There are few things which accompany roast beef as well as Yorkshire pudding and certainly the one at Lawry’s is excellent — fluffy and fragrant, while gently crispy on the outside. The mashed potatoes are cleverly cast in a mould with a depression on the top to contain the beef gravy, so that the gravy can be kept apart from the meat, if so desired.

I must confess that I am not much of a salad fan. Even so, I rather enjoyed the salad at Lawry’s and I can attribute this to the adroit addition of the crunchy croutons and unique dressing to the vegetables. The so-called ‘ Famous Original Spinning Bowl Salad’ is prepared at the table by a waitress with some small degree of showmanship. The ingredients are tossed in a bowl spun on a bed of crushed ice while the dressing is poured into the salad bowl from above shoulder height — a nice touch perhaps, but not terribly impressive or necessary.

As can be expected, there is a good selection of wines which can be ordered by the bottle or by the glass.

Fresh fish and lobster tails also feature in the menu. I did not try the fish but I reckon the beef itself would be reason enough for anyone to visit Lawry’s.

While the raison d’ etre for patronising any eating establishment must be the food itself, ambience undoubtedly heightens the dining experience. The first time one steps into Lawry’s, one cannot help but be impressed with the setting that is evocative of a bygone era. Wood panelling, high ceiling from which hang immense chandeliers and the massive oil paintings adorning the walls, all add up to an appropriate atmosphere for enjoying the type of cuisine served. At the risk of sounding finicky, I noticed, however, on closer scrutiny, that the finishing of the carpentry falls a little short — the woodwork betrays the fact that it was hurriedly affixed by modern-day contractors rather than painstakingly installed by craftsmen from days of yore. Then again, when the food is especially good, such details may be overlooked.

I would recommend Lawry’s to anyone who is not adverse to beef, certain in the belief that he or she will depart with ample satisfisfaction.

Chia Cheok Sien
Chia & Tang