Old World Style in a Modern City

Toronto, a modern and 'happenin' city, often brings to mind a towering skyline and the latest in architecture. It can, however, be a city of contrasts, as our reviewer discovered. Follow Jeffrey Lee on his stay at two grand old hotels filled with the kind of old world charm and luxury which most of us can only dream about.

Toronto’s reputation for modern architecture overshadows her many older architectural styles in an innovative city, one that reinvents itself constantly. For instance, the CN Tower and SkyDome are two landmarks which delineate and wrap around space with contemporary self-possession.

Nestled, however, amongst the rising cityscape are gems of buildings from around the turn of the last century. Architecture without the accompanying lifestyle is vacuous, much like pre-war shophouses gutted for office fittings (they call it conservation in Singapore) or hotels whose heritage facade belie nondescript modern interiors (for instance, the Goodwood Hotel). However, Toronto’s hotels, particuarly the Royal York and King Edward, exemplify the most interesting of the city’s heritage designs. Complementing their exteriors, the décor and fittings within evoke a complete old world lifestyle. Here, design is infused with soul and received into every aspect of living (for guests) and working (for hotel staff) within the building. The result is an experience quite different from those at other heritage hotels I have stayed at.

The Royal York

It is not every hotel that dares to admit to sightings of apparitions in its corridors, for such a confession is a sure public relations debacle. This self-aplomb is due perhaps in part to its sterling clientele through its 67 years, and to its architecture. Derived from mixing beaux-arts with early 20th century avant-garde European architecture, the Royal York’s exterior extends such a magnificent welcome that arriving in a taxi seems almost mean. (A suitable arrival would be accomplished in a limousine.)

Step past revolving doors into a richly appointed lobby with wooden panelling, specially woven carpets and commissioned paintings. This alone should not amaze, for I have seen many insecure lobbies decorated with elaborate trappings; but here, there is a stately poise, absorbed from the experience of hosting royalty and the genuine flavour of a grand American hotel of the 20s. Original chandeliers hang from high wooden ceilings while a mezzanine level offers a sweeping view of the lobby itself. In such surroundings, a form of sensible dress is advised as one proceeds to the reception to check into a suite (no less).

I stayed in the Governor-General Suite with two bedrooms, drawing room and a hall. Decorated in traditional English style, the suite was elegant and comfortable and gave extraordinary views of new and old Canada. The ultramodern CN Tower appeared before the drawing room window in contrast to a bedroom view of the Toronto Harbour and a bird’s eye perspective of an old train station. Even the snow flakes drifting past my window looked old-fashioned against the historic Union Station with its rail tracks cutting through the snow.

Not all is old at the Royal York. Recent renovations have added modern facilities such as state-of-the-art meeting rooms, a business centre and business equipped guestrooms, and a modern gym. Given the size of the hotel (1,348 rooms), the usual ‘check-in’ at the lobby reception can be confusing. I recommend that guests use the Entrée Gold facilities — a separate reception and concierge service on the 19th floor, and a private lounge serving complimentary breakfast and drinks. The service here is exceptional: considerate and professional, and also keeps one away from masses of convention guests. Rooms to avoid are those on the 11th floor, where the long and confusing common corridor in all its richness of carpet and décor is likely to enervate the sturdiest guest. Otherwise, the rooms are generally well appointed and luxurious.

The seamless blending of the old with the new sees the guest moving from grand ballrooms, the venue of many important social events, to discreet spiral staircases which lead from the lobby to a stretch of totally modern basement shopping. The basement shops mark the start of miles and miles of an underground city.

Opened as a railway hotel by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company in June 1927, the Royal York was then the tallest building in the British Commonweath. In comparison to other heritage hotels, the Royal York is at the most middle-aged, but it makes up for its relative youth by remaining faithful to the spirit of the roaring twenties. In this respect, many older hotels have done worse with their own legacies.

The King Edward

Those who prefer the intimacy and privacy of a smaller hotel will do very well at the King Edward. Also fondly known as ‘King Eddie’, this 97-year old hotel has seen its fortunes rise, and fall repeatedly through its history. In the 70s, it was threatened with demolition and thereafter languished under poor maintenance. A massive $25 million renovation in the 80s restored King Eddie’s reputation.

Today, the hotel welcomes guests into an exquisite lobby with a skylight, where afternoon tea and evening cocktails are served. On a clear evening, the blue skies above make the experience quite unforgettable. A small lift lobby tucked away at one corner takes the guest to any of the 294 rooms and suites. The décor of rooms and common areas is presented with a lighter touch and without the rich dark tones of the Royal York.

The vintage of King Eddie, though, is unmistakable. The period details on the walls and ceilings of the hotel, as well as the French Renaissance style of its exterior, attest to a period where royalty and celebrities flocked to the hotel. The ornate is set off by fairly simple furniture, resulting in uncluttered, understated elegance. If anything, the style of King Eddie may be too understated and would benefit from an infusion of richer fabrics, plants and other decorative objects.

During my stay in a junior suite, I was particularly impressed with service standards, which are of the very best I have encountered in all the hotels reviewed. The staff were friendly, but unobtrusive and always proper. The concierge and reception displayed the highest standards, showed initiative and attended to requests promptly. This is not easy praise. What many think of as deluxe service in expensive hotels is really only satisfactory and often mediocre. I have met too many surly bellhops, incompetent waiters and ingratiating concierge in five-star properties to know the difference.

I was also impressed with Café Victoria, where I took breakfast. With huge windows and high ceilings decorated with carvings, the café gave a view of the streets and their pedestrians. The simple cane chairs were a brilliant counterpoint to a complicated ceiling in a room that had an age-old comfort not found in upstart establishments pretending to look old and grand. Eating pancakes in the café, I realised there was not a better place in Toronto to watch falling snow.

Jeffrey Lee
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