Morton's of Chicago

They call 'Morton's of Chicago' the Ultimate Steakhouse. However, skeptics be warned, Morton's offers much more. With an ambience of soft lighting, rich woods, white tablecloths, brass fittings and black and white photographs, it suggests a private gentlemen's club serving (not ladies) but an assortment of meats from hand-cut steaks, including fillet mignon, to the freshest lobsters from Maine.

Morton's is discreetly tucked away on the 4th Floor of the Oriental Hotel. It is open for dinner only and reservations are recommended. The entrance is marked by a closed door in the shade of burgundy with the words 'Morton's'. One has no clue as to the setting of the restaurant until one opens the door. On entering the restaurant, you will be transported to an elegant, dark New York club set in a background of jazz music and impeccable service.

All guests are greeted by their names on arrival and we were ushered, on request, to the bar by Gary Williams, the general manager. The bar is stocked with a tempting range of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. We were told that Noel, the captain, makes the best martinis in town. You must, therefore, order a martini and nibble on an olive (though we would recommend the martinis only to those with a capacity for alcohol). This would enable you to soak in the ambience of a rich upscale bar in dark colours and lots of gleaming surfaces.

After our drinks, we were escorted to our 'booth' which exudes comfort in a cozy corner with a sofa and a table on wheels. The dining experience then begins with an ice-breaker of warm onion bread to tuck into.

The dinner menu is all about steak. However, do not despair if you are not a steak lover ... for there is seafood (lobsters and salmon), veal, lamb and chicken, accented by warm onion bread, crisp green salads, garden vegetables and delicious desserts. The food items on the menu are listed in both English and Chinese and all orders are a la carte only.

Being an American restaurant serving American fare and given the Asian palette, arguably, the most common customer query would be the size of the portions of food. But therein lies the surprise. Before you can decide on your choice of cuisine, you will be suitably entertained by the servers as to the dinner menu.

Morton's is the only restaurant in Singapore where the dinner menu is rolled up to your table on a cart. You actually see the servers bringing towards you a cart laden with full-sized portions of every entree - including a four-pound lobster flown in from Maine. We had never seen vegetables this big.

The servers are admirable. We had two servers, Mike & Nor, both with 1.2GB memory rattling off the dinner menu as if they were performing a play. They explained, with style and wit, the different cuts of meat and the accompaniments and answered our queries with a smile. The whole show was simply marvellous and after the performance, we didn't know whether to applaud or to order!

In the end, our appetites got the better of us and we ordered the Oysters on the Half Shell and the Broiled Sea Scallops wrapped in bacon with apricot chutney. The Bluepoint oysters tasted fresh and clear and they arrived on a bed of ice and lemon. The appearance was simply dazzling. Initially, I was reluctant to order the Broiled Scallops. However, on Mike's recommendation I did decide to try it. You will not regret it. Though the scallops were only broiled, it was tender to the palate as it was lightly flavoured. The bacon added the tangy jolt to the taste buds and the apricot chutney was a good finishing touch. I would certainly recommend it.

And then came the entrees, I ordered the Lobster Bisque with the famous Lyonnaise potatoes which were rustic in appearance and loaded with caramelised onions. The lobster meat was sweet and succulent and I knew that I had made the right choice. The portions seemed overwhelming but in the end I realised that with some help, I could finish the eye-popping gargantuan lobster.

The ultimate measure of a great steakhouse is its steak and in this regard Morton's does not fail to impress. The Cajun Ribeye Steak that was selected, comprised a USDA prime aged beef cut. It was charbroiled at 1,800 degrees and that we understood was to give the edges a lovely char. The 'medium rare' steak was cooked to perfection and cut like butter. The overall effect was a 'melt-in-the-mouth' steak. I understand that the steaks at Morton's are dry aged to increase its natural tenderness and enrich its original flavour. However, being a 'Cajun' steak and given the Asian palate, I felt that the steak was lightly seasoned and a little too sweet, perhaps it could have been spicier.

To compliment our entrees, we ordered the Morton's salad and the Steamed Fresh Asparagus with Hollandaise sauce. The salad which comprised a mixture of iceberg and romaine lettuce was crispy and fresh and the sauce was divine. The Steamed Fresh Asparagus was crisp and crunchy. The Hollandaise sauce, which is buttery and light, is a must. I would suggest just a dip of the sauce if one is watching those calories.

I would suggest leaving room for the heavenly dessert known as the 'Godiva chocolate cake'. It is a circular-shaped chocolate sponge cake with a soft centre filled with molten, velvet chocolate - sheer heaven for chocoholics!

I wish to add that throughout our dinner at Morton's, the service was impressive as the servers are highly trained. I never once had to endure an empty glass or ask for anything.

Morton's of Chicago is certainly a steakhouse with a difference. It is highly recommended that you visit this place at least once for a memorable dining experience. But remember this motto: 'Bring a Big Appetite and do not be Afraid to Share'! Failing which, you can always ask for doggie bags which are readily given.


Anidha S Thomas
Palakrishnan & Partners