To many, a grand tour of Tuscany usually means Firenze and Pisa. However, for those who have already visited the major cities in Italy, why not experience the other
enchanting hill towns and cities in Tuscany? Toscano is home not only to majestic museums and designer boutiques, but also a landscape of beautiful architecture and also home to some of Italy’s finest wines and olive oil.
Pisa
Our first two cities were the obligatory stops — Pisa and Florence. Climbing the Torre Pendente (otherwise known as the Leaning Tower) was a childhood dream come true. It has recently been opened to tourists, after 10 years of
re-enforcement work to prevent it from leaning further.
Florence
Day two saw us sweating it out in the sweltering summer heat in a two-hour train ride to Firenze. The first place we stopped at was the San Lorenzo market, famous for its leather goods. We then popped into the Medici Cappelle
to escape the afternoon sun. The opulence of the chapel was a sight to behold with the different coloured slabs of marble acquired from different parts of the world. Michangelo’s David in the Galleria D Uffizi was perhaps the
highlight for us in Florence.
The Tuscan Countryside
I have long heard that hotels in Europe are not of the same standard as in Singapore. Consequently, for most of our stay, we chose modern four-star hotels, with the exception of La Doccia. We found La Doccia, a bed and
breakfast, through the internet. A former Monks Farm serving the Vallambrosa Monastery, and situated 27km from Florence, it has been perfectly restored. Run by a warm and friendly couple, Edward and Sonia Mayhew, they were not
only our hosts, but our guides to the charming Tuscan cuisine and countryside. In this area where many locals do not speak English, this was extremely helpful. We used La Doccia as a hub from which we explored the Chianti region.
As this region is famous for its wines, we made sure that our forays included wine tasting. We visited a modern vineyard, Carpineto, where the manager brought us on a tour of the factory. A lunch stop in the Greve-in-Chianti
region is a must. Borgo Antico is run by burly but friendly Stefano and his wife Patrizia. The homemade pasta cooked in Tuscan olive oil and porcini mushrooms were gorgeous.
Outlet Shopping in Toscano
While the aim of this trip was to explore the more discreet charms of provincial living, it was hard to resist visits to the Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Prada outlets. The outlets, with the exception of Prada, were well
signposted once we drove into Montevarchi. After the Chianti region, it was hilltop towns and medieval cities galore — Monteriggioni, Siena, San Gimignano and Lucca.
Monteriggioni
If you are on the way to or from Siena, Monteriggioni is a worthwhile photostop. Monteriggioni is a small village in the province of Siena, not frequented by the majority of tourists. It was founded by the Sienese in 1203
against arch rival Florence. The 570m medieval city walls — still perfectly intact, manage to appear suddenly before you, whether you are coming from the A1 from Florence or via Cassia from Siena. It makes one awestruck by its
majestic presence. These picturesque walls are alternated by 14 towers and two gates, and were even immortalised by the great poet Dante Alighieri. Today, the residents of the town number around 60.
San Gimignano
Dominating the Val d’Elsa with its towers, this town takes its name from St Gimignano, the Bishop of Modena, who is said to have saved the village from hordes of barbarians. Also known as the City of Fine Towers, it used to
have 72 towers, of which only 14 remain intact. In addition to their use for security and defence, the height of each tower symbolised wealth and influence — the higher the tower, the richer your family. Do climb the 54m up the
Torre Grossa. The panoramic view is breathtaking — the city and its palazzos, the acres of sprawling agricultural fields and vineyards in the surrounding countryside.
Siena
Siena was founded by the Etruscans and became a Roman colony known as Saena Julia. Its largely pedestrianised streets are steep and narrow; the red of the Piazza del Campo appearing blinding and suddenly. This Campo has been
described as shell or fan shaped. It is very much a focal point of the city, the meeting place, the market place and the venue for the Palio. The ‘shell’ is divided into nine segments, alluding to the Council of Nine who ruled the
city in its heyday. Siena is built across a range of small hills. It is divided into 17 contrade (districts). These contrade compete in the Siena’s famous annual horserace, the Palio, held in the square Il Campo in July and
August.
Lucca
Our last stop was Lucca. Lucca is a city with a 4km fortress wall that was
transformed to its present garden aspect by the Bourbon ruler, Marie Louise. We enjoyed a
pleasant walk along the tree-lined path at the top of the wall. A must-see is the Roman amphitheatre. The remarkable Piazza Anfiteatro is a circuit of medieval buildings whose foundations are the arches of the Roman amphitheatre.
The most significant experience we took away from each hill town was that when we stepped into each medieval city, with the exception of a few vestiges of modern day living, the architecture remains the same as it did a few
hundred years ago.
Karin Yong