Once upon a time, the ancient
Maharajas regaled their honoured guests with the best of Indian culinary and
artistic delights in a palace built purely for entertainment. They called it the
Rang Mahal, which literally means 'Palace of Pleasures'. The Rang Mahal
restaurant housed at the Pan Pacific Hotel is no less deserving of this title.
Whereas your craving for all things curry and spice can be easily satiated by any one of the many eating houses along every side street in Little India, it's not as easy to track down a fine-dining Indian restaurant in Singapore. Among the handful that I've been to, Rang Mahal is a definite top pick. Serving up the finest of Rajasthani, Kashmiri, Gujerati and Punjabi cuisine, Rang Mahal is renowned for its tandoori kebabs since its establishment in 1971.
My companion and I were treated to
an assortment of Rang Mahal's star dishes. Before you reach for any of the main
dishes, don't forget to have a go at the complimentary papadams. These
peppercorn-studded zingers with mint dip primed our taste buds for the feast
that was to follow.
The first course of the feast was a platter of kebabs ranging from tandoori chicken, king prawns, stuffed portobello mushrooms and fish tikka panipat. My favourite was the mushrooms ... aside from the originality of this dish, the mushrooms were succulent with a tangy bite and a sweet aftertaste.
Together with the kebabs came a
double joy, which were for me the highlights of the menu. The first was a
chlorophyllous drink known as khalji, which at a sip tastes of the sea. My
immediate reaction was to gulp it down quickly and not touch the cup again. Upon
the urging of Satinder Ganju, the Operations Manager, I ventured another try ...
this time letting the sip rest in my mouth. After a few more sips, I could not
stop reaching for the cup. As Satinder explained, this refreshing concoction of
rock salt, tamarind, coriander, pepper, chilli, mint, ferngreen and other secret
ingredients (which Satinder preferred to keep mum about) is an 'appetite
opener'.
The other joy was the lentil soup which, as my companion declared, seemed like the cousin of the South Indian 'rasam' (a light peppery soup). Rang Mahal's lentil soup has a slightly creamy texture and the surprise is its zesty, lemon taste. The khalji and the lentil soup work well as counterpoints to what some may find a hearty selection of meats and spices. So ask for both!
The main course had all the hot
favourites of North Indian cuisine - roganjosh, murg mumtaz and palar paneer.
The meats were well marinated, tender, moist and fell easily off the bone. What
struck me as extraordinary was how Rang Mahal has managed to retain the
full-bodied tastiness that is typical of the cuisine yet introduce a light
texture that made the dishes easygoing. Often times when you walk away from an
Indian meal, it's with a heavy tummy and a desire for a snooze. When you walk
away from a Rang Mahal meal, it is with a feeling of wholesome content ... the
sort of contentment you would feel after you've seen a great sunset or a Sunday
afternoon walk in the park.
Desserts at Rang Mahal are a glamorous affair. The gulab jamun (melt-in-your mouth quality), rasmullah (with pistachios), chocolate barfee, plain barfee and mango shrikan are all delectable. To give some perspective, my companion has not stopped raving about the rasmullah yet.
If you get a chance, ask to be shown the Private Room. The two madhubani murals by Chandra Bhushan and the walls of the room lined with a fabric of gold threads hark of understated splendour. The rest of Rang Mahal has been decorated with a chic and refined hand. Granites, limestone and dark woods are set against the soothing sound of flowing water and a palette of earthy hues. Exotic sculptures evoke the temple halls of India, especially the giant Ganesh at the entrance.
Plans are apparently underway to set up sister restaurants in Japan, Hong Kong and Malaysia. For local fans, a trendy, casual outlet serving tandoor and tapas along Stadium Waterfront should be open anytime soon.
Where once untold pleasures were the sole domain of the Maharajas, Rang Mahal has brought this experience to anyone who appreciates distinctive North Indian gastronomy. And please don't take my word for it.
Bala Shunmugam
Rang Mahal Pte Ltd
The Pan Pacific Singapore
Level 3
7 Raffles Boulevard Marina Square
Singapore 039595
Tel: 6333 1788