A Lawyer, a Cook and a Musician

In our modern society, the roles of men and women are intermingled. Singaporean women compete equally with Singaporean men and are proving themselves to be as good or better than their male counterparts in the corporate world. Men too have stepped into the arena which used to be exclusively the women’s domain — they are equally adept at running the household, taking care of the children and leaving their mark in the kitchen.

I know of a former colleague and friend who takes pride in being domesticated and cooks for the wife and guests. Having a very able housewife and great cook for a mother, I did not see the need to enter the kitchen until I lived without my mother in London a number of years ago. My flat mate still reminds me of how I first stared at a can opener and used a paper plate to cover a cooking pot on a stove!

Unlike many men, Chong Kim Soon was a familiar sight in his mother’s kitchen since the age of 11. ‘It all started when I began to observe my mother cooking in her kitchen and I then helped her in the simple preparations when she cooked Sunday lunch. It was a half-day affair which started from the marketing and ending in mother and I putting lunch on the table for the family to eat.’ His interest in cooking continued through the first year of hostel life at the National University of Singapore and after completing his Year Three law examinations, Kim Soon decided to do his attachment at a coffee house in the former Hotel Melia@Scotts. He worked under the supervision of the head chef. ‘My first lesson was to toss uncooked rice in a wok without spilling them over.’

He continued to cook for his friends who became his fans and they encouraged him to develop his cooking skills. At that time, he was a corporate lawyer with Rodyk & Davidson. After completing his second year of practice, he decided to devote a year to full-time cooking. He moved from his comfortable corporate law office into the kitchen of The Olive Tree Restaurant at Hotel Inter-Continental. For a monthly salary of S$940, he started right at the bottom rung working as a Commis Cook 3. On his first day at work, he assisted at the breakfast counter. Kim Soon’s passion for cooking is obvious from the delight and joy in his voice and face when he talks about the subject.

‘The people who work in the kitchen, though a rough bunch, are very direct in their communication. They will not hesitate to praise you for a job well done, but they will also give you an earful if you don’t perform. I still remember a Chinese cook in the kitchen who spoke Hokkien. He was so passionate about his job and he had the moves. It was a joy to watch him in the kitchen. From him, I learnt some attributes of a good cook — maintaining a clean uniform in the kitchen, good organisational skills and cleanliness.’

During that year, Kim Soon was promoted to Commis Cook 2. ‘Cooking in a commercial kitchen is usually done by men due to the strenuous nature of the job. We have to move huge pots and load stores into a trolley and unload them in the kitchen quickly.’

At the end of the year, Kim Soon discovered that he could go to Europe to train as a professional cook. ‘The training was for two years and I was not going to be paid but only provided with food and boarding during the training period.

I enjoy cooking but making it a career would mean long hours in the kitchen and no life outside the kitchen.’ The other consideration, to Kim Soon, was his parents. Behind all the passion and enthusiasm Kim Soon displays, he is a filial son and his parents are an important part of his life.

After that one-year stint, he resumed his position in the Corporate Department of Rodyk & Davidson. ‘I do enjoy my work as a lawyer. I took a one-year break from law as I felt that I should pursue my love for cooking whilst I still have the youthful energy,’ he said with a smile. ‘I love the challenge of conceptualising transactions where there are no legal precedents. Law practice and commercial cooking have one common feature — meeting of deadlines.’ Having returned from a six-month stint as a legal counsel with a corporate client recently, Kim Soon feels that the downside of legal practice is the unpredictable clients and the major concern over time sheets and billings. He feels a sense of achievement when he has a done a good piece of work and enjoys the independence of running his files.

Being a lawyer nowadays is no longer confined to the practice of law; the lawyer has to divert his time and energy to knowledge management skills and marketing as well. Legal associates are also expected to do marketing these days. Kim Soon feels that marketing is necessary albeit tiring. ‘It is an opportunity to market our work to our potential clients and to instill their confidence in the lawyers. It is definitely not a case of a personal sell-out.’

He admires cookbook writer, Nigel Slater, for his simple recipes. His favourite dish is roast rack of lamb. Kim Soon’s cooking style is one of using the freshest ingredients cooked simply and in a colourful combination. ‘I tend to use more salt in my cooking to give it more flavour.’

According to Kim Soon, the food culture in Singapore is developed, but not yet mature. Most Singaporeans seem very interested in patronising new restaurants that open every month. A supporter of good restaurants, he picks Salut as his favourite restaurant. ‘It was a functional restaurant where the captain was very knowledgeable and they took their time to serve good food. Too bad it is no longer with us.’ Kim Soon occasionally caters for dinner parties for friends during the weekends.

Kim Soon is also a member of a band which he formed with his long-time friends playing Mandarin pop music. He sings and plays the guitar in the band.

Yes, he enjoys cooking for his girlfriend and a perfect evening for them is one spent eating a simply prepared meal with a bottle of wine.

Rajan Chettiar
Rajan Chettiar & Co
E-mail: rajanchettiar@pacific.net.sg