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Travel |
Lord of the Rings’ Middle Earth Country — South Island of New Zealand

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All through my holiday, I couldn’t stop thinking that God had taken every beautiful thing he created and compacted them into New Zealand — and the South Island got the better deal!
My advice to anyone considering an exploration of this picturesque land is: Don’t join a whirlwind tour group. Instead, embark on a self-drive tour. This way, you won’t miss any of the postcard-perfect views of this country which remains stunningly beautiful all year round.
My journey began with a flight to Christchurch, the capital city of the South Island, where I met my friend and together we caught a connecting flight to Queenstown. On arrival, we zeroed in on Hertz car rental and were soon zipping off in a red car. Before long, we checked into a villa at Millbrook Resort in Arrowtown, where we would spend the next few days in blissful indulgence.
Tucked away in an exquisite setting, the relaxing resort had me awestruck by its most impressive world-class golf course. Featuring impeccably groomed fairways and greens and surrounded by the alpine backdrop of the Remarkables Mountain Range, this would prove an exhilarating experience for any golfer.
Heading out to Arrowtown, I found out why it was called ‘one of the best places in New Zealand for autumn colour.’ Drenched in the season’s hues of red and gold, the tree-lined streets of the little gold mining town shimmered in the setting sun. Through careful preservation of its colourful history, its old world charm was apparent even as I walked down the main street where quaint shops, cafes, bistros, pubs and restaurants sat side by side.
Over the next few days, we would drive into Queenstown (just 10 minutes from Arrowtown) where plenty of adventurous outdoor activities awaited the thrill seeker. And what better way to begin the adrenaline rush than with a stop at Skyline Gondola Restaurant situated at Bob’s Peak. From the base station (which is about 340m above sea level), we took a cable car to the top station (which is about 790m up) and upon reaching the Skyline Gondola, we had three options of fun sports to choose from. We could (a) race in a Luge cart winding downhill on a Luge track about 800m long; (b) hurtle towards earth attached to a bungee cord from AJ Hackett’s ‘The Ledge’; or (c) take off on a tandem parapente flight from 1,000m above sea level and soar high above the town into the wild blue yonder before spiralling back down to ground zero. I took the paragliding option and what magnificent views of the town I got!
Coming back down to earth, I spent time chilling out at some of the cafés and restaurants that make Queenstown a lively place to hang out in the evening. You could easily have a romantic dinner with the wide variety of fine food and pair it with Pinot Noir wines which are ranked among the world’s finest. If you feel especially lucky, head on down to the Skycity Casino.
One of my favourite to do things was to walk to the edge of Queenstown and gaze at the beautiful Lake Wakatipu. The lake’s steep slopes are dark with native forest and the snowy tops of the Remarkables reflect on its tranquil surface. One way of seeing the lake is to cruise by on board the TSS Earnslaw, a steamship from the beginning of the century, and disembarking at the Walter Peak Homestead Restaurant.
Feeling adventurous, we left Queenstown to venture further. As we followed the contours of Lake Wakatipu, we did not realise that we were on one of the world’s most scenic routes and we were rewarded with 40 minutes of pure scenic heaven and excellent ‘mirror image’ photo opportunity. We continued to drive on and we arrived at the pristine Glenorchy, known to the rest of the world as Tolkien’s mythical Middle Earth country from the Lord of the Rings Trilogy. Nestled between two National Parks with World Heritage status, this is the gateway to the famous Paradise, Rees and Dart Valleys, Routeburn Track and Shotover River. Just unwind, soak in the tranquillity and replenish your soul with the breathtaking view of unspoilt nature and awesome landscapes.
If you live for adventure, take on white water rafting and jet boating on several wild rivers. Proceed also to the world’s first bungy site at Kawarau Bungy Bridge for bungy jumping or to see bungy jumpers in action.
As you leave Queenstown, get on the road that takes you to the Crown Range Alpine Highway which is New Zealand’s highest altitude main road at 1,076m. Cut through the Cardrona Valley and if time permits, make a stop at the historic Cardrona Hotel built in 1863 for a pint. As you continue to drive, be prepared to chuckle as you see the famous ‘bra hanging on fence’ covered in cast-off women’s bras in front of the airfield.
Heading on, we arrived at Wanaka, a popular tourist resort town that centres on the famous Lake Wanaka and is the gateway to many ski fields at Treble Cone, Cardona and Mt Aspiring National Park. Wanaka combines the ease of small town living with the quality of a good resort. This compact town centre provides visitors with easy access to shops, restaurants and spectacular sights. Adrenaline addicts, foot-sore travellers and lovers of luxury, will find plenty to do in this winter snow-lover’s paradise. We chose to soak in the spectacular autumn sight of the exotic trees at the lakeside whilst eating and imbibing in one of the cosy cafés there.
Half an hour’s drive from the town centre of Wanaka is the Puzzling World House, a unique attraction that would leave one puzzled! Each room you enter is an illusion in its own right. The ceiling is like a giant kaleidoscope and even the public toilets are unusually created to look like old style Roman toilets.
A few hours drive from Queenstown to the South West of the Island will take you to the Fiordland. The beautiful lakes, hidden lakes, waterfalls and deep fiords make it a truly magical and majestic place. While there, you should go on a trip to the Milford Sound or experience a tour of Te Anau to view the glow-worms.
En route to Christchurch, which is a long drive, we stopped to see New Zealand’s highest mountain known as Mount Cook or Aoraki (in Maori it means the Cloud Piercer), which stands at 3,754m. At the alpine village, we checked into Hermitage Hotel and got a room with a balcony view of Mt Cook. Imagine waking up in the morning to a sight of a majestic towering mountain. It simply took my breath away! So did the divine culinary dining experience at the famous Panorama Restaurant. At the entrance of the hotel is a statue of Sir Edmund Hillary — another photo opportunity.
If weather permits, go on a magical scenic flight over the powerfully emotive landscapes of Mt Cook, the famous Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers combined with a thrilling snow landing — an experience you will always remember. The brilliant white snow and vivid blue ice created a fantasyland of towering pinnacles, dramatic crevasses, and peculiar puzzling formations with cut-out designs that might disappear the next day. Jagged peaks of blue ice dusted with dark grey edges looked like art. I felt like I was on top of the world. The air was clean and the view, marvellous.
If you enjoy trekking, then hike to the base of Mt Tasman for glacier viewing. The murky lake is framed with the backdrop of Mount Cook and the Southern Alps. Sadly the sight was not as spectacular as it sounds, hence, I could not help but utter, ‘I climbed all that just to see this?!’ That brought a chuckle to my fellow climbers.
Driving on to Christchurch, we made stops at Lake Pukaki to take shots of the Southern Alps, the stunning turquoise blue hue of Lake Tekapo and the famous stone Church of the Good Shepherd. We also paused for a cuppa at Geraldine, where you will find the Guinness Record for the ‘largest home knitted jersey’.
After a few more hours on the road, we finally reached Christchurch. Known as the ‘Garden City’, this very English looking town is famous for being the main gateway to the Antarctica. Stop at the International Antarctica Centre to experience a ‘mock’ blizzard with temperatures dropping to -20°C. You can opt to ride in an all-terrain Antarctic Hagglund snowmobile.
The best way to explore the town of Christchurch is to hop on the Victorian electric tram and take the loop service to soak in the sights of yesteryears. Make stops at charming Regent Street, Mona Vale Homestead and the Botanic Gardens. Check out the Kiwi Wildlife Centre where you can meet kiwis in a specially created indoor habitat.
When you are walking around the Cathedral Square do make a stop at the Clock Tower of the Christchurch Cathedral and climb 133 steps to get amazing views of the city. Don’t forget to collect your certificate of achievement for making that climb! For a new experience, do attend the Sunday Jazz Service at the church.
Sadly, as all good things must come to an end, I made last minute shopping purchases, in particular the famous All Blacks rugby t-shirt, before catching my flight from Christchurch back to Singapore.
Gloria James
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