Jewel by the River — The Peninsula Bangkok

It used to be said that the Peninsula Bangkok was on the wrong side of the Chao Phraya river.

This was six years ago when the stalwarts of the river, Oriental Bangkok and Shangri-la, reigned on the other side of the murky waters. They were the conventional choices for a visitor because of their proximity to the financial and shopping districts. Common wisdom predicted the demise of the Peninsula in Thailand’s fiercely competitive hotel industry.

Today, the Peninsula has proven its detractors very wrong. In its brief six years, the hotel has not only survived but emerged as one of the best in the world in service, amenities and experience.

In reaching its present standing, nothing was spared in creating a supremely luxurious hotel with its dark marbled and wood-panelled lobby with lush guestrooms. Without the benefit or burden of any historic legacy, the Peninsula manages to be both elegant and not overbearing.

The lobby entrance almost recedes into itself — but step up and doors swing open with style. The doorman in his pageboy hat is entrenched as one of the enduring images of Peninsula hotels. At the Bangkok property, there are no over-the-top chandeliers, no grand staircases, and certainly no self-important artworks.

Beneath its self-effacement is sheer indulgence in the finest materials from carpets to drapes. A smaller-proportioned layout lends a greater intimacy to the concierge and reception areas. Its two separate lift lobbies increase the chance of private elevator rides. The look-and-feel here could not be more different than its openly grand sister property, the Peninsula Hong Kong.

The guestrooms make a compelling statement in comfort and ambience. Control panels draw curtains and change lights into mood lighting. The suites provide stunning views of the river. A shower dramatically lit by a single spotlight and a bathtub TV are signature features.

Valet assistance can be summoned at the press of a button. Shoes, placed in a compartment in the walk-in wardrobe, are retrieved from the common corridor by hotel staff and returned shined the following day. Newspapers are also delivered through this conduit. Room service was excellent — dinner for my family was beautifully and efficiently presented with accompanying linen and silverware, with minimum fuss.

For the ultimate in luxury, the hotel offers airport transfers by helicopter from its rooftop helipad. An entire vintage helicopter motor displayed in the waiting area looks as if it belonged nowhere else except right on the wall to which it was attached. Even at its most indulgent, there is no pretension or self-consciousness about its relative youth (a welcome change from some five-star establishments whose unbridled opulence borders on the superfluous and schizophrenic).

It is clear that the Peninsula Bangkok has presently at least equalled (if not surpassed) the legendary Oriental Bangkok just across the river. An extraordinary feat because the Peninsula’s ascent has been in spite of the most intense competition from the Oriental Bangkok, one of the most famous hotels ever. Reported stories of rivalry include private declarations of war by Oriental management, and the labelling of Peninsula as ‘the Evil Empire’. It has also been less than easy for each hotel’s boat to ferry guests to the other hotel’s private pier for meals.

Before the Peninsula, Bangkok’s hotel industry set such high standards it seemed impossible to outdo them. Today, the Peninsula Bangkok is the trail blazer. With its spa on the way in 2006, nothing for the moment seems out of reach for the new kid on the block.

Service:                                

There is no mystery to good service, often characterised as amorphous and hard to pin down. Service here is unobtrusive when not needed, and fairly knowledgeable and prompt when required. High marks for 
consistency — from bellhop to concierge and waiters, all displayed friendliness and warmth. One short step to outstanding service.

Food:                         

The River Café and Terrace (with indoor or alfresco seating) offers above average fare, and views of the river 
and chugging ferries. Afternoon tea in the Lobby is an utterly civilised affair. Jesters is a fusion restaurant 
modelled after the style of Felix (the famous fusion restaurant) at the Hong Kong Peninsula. Above all, Thiptara, 
the Thai restaurant is a delight (see below).

Rooms:                     

Decorated in contemporary style with light Thai touches. My deluxe suite was one of the most comfortable 
suites I have ever stayed in. The attention to detail is unrivalled. Twin bathroom vanities, separate toilet and 
amenities such as a sewing kit with needles already threaded add a distinctive touch. High-speed internet 
connection, silent fax with private number and a two-line data port make it easy for the business traveller. My 
only gripe is that some of the angled windows (which allow the river panorama) look out into other guest 
rooms and vice-versa.

Overall experience:

Sumptuousness restrained by an uber-cool veneer. Room check-in gives it a rare edge over many top hotels — the long-haul traveller can best appreciate this. Check-out at the dark-marbled reception offers a poignant reminder of the guest’s impending step out into sweltering Bangkok, the contrast between the cool dark marble and the glaring heat being particularly stark. Separately located in a spacious corner and decorated in drawing-room style with sofa and table lights, there is no queue and no hint of hurry at the reception. One can truly check-out in style — paying the bill is almost a pleasure.

Thiptara — Heaven on the Water

Asprawling banyan tree, five private dining pavilions (salas) and alfresco dining are the key elements of this unparalleled dining spot by the Chao Phraya river.

The rusticity of a village house is evoked by a second floor lounge area in a Thai pavilion lounge, overhung by the comforting banyan branches. From this verdant haven where pre-dinner drinks are served, one catches fleeting glimpses of the river barges and ferries.

Wooden decks, an antique well, small canals, bridges and candles enhance the mood. Blazing bamboo torches along the embankment add a touch of the wilderness, as if placed to fend off unwelcome creatures.

I love Thai food. But its spicy and piquant flavours are sometimes undercut by the excessive use of sugar and fish sauce. This leaves some dishes confused and directionless. But when Thai cuisine gets its act together,
it is paradise.

I tasted that bit of heaven in Thiptara’s evocative surroundings.

The steamed seabass I had boldly married tender fish meat with a spicy lemon sauce that had a kick at the end of the tasting experience. Ordinarily, I baulk at matching the rather delicate seabass with such a robust accompaniment. (The freshest seabass is best steamed plain with some ginger and spring onion). But the dish succeeds on its own level, with its mild zesty spiciness drawing attention to the texture of the fish. To the chef’s credit, the sauce reduces but never completely eclipses the flavours of the fish.

The rock lobster was appropriately stir-fried with basil and chilli. The basil is an amazingly uplifting herb — leavening the denseness of many dishes. Here, the chilli acquires a new dimension, no longer just hot but alternating with basil in an interplay of spice and fragrance, and trailing off with a basil aroma.

Other notable dishes include lemongrass chicken with a spicy sweet-sour sauce, and deep-fried fish cakes with salted egg yolk. Its range of mango, papaya and pomelo salads is a must-try.

For those who want to try their hand at cooking Thai cuisine, the Peninsula Academy offers a series of cooking classes which include market trips with the chef to buy fresh ingredients. This is followed by dinner of your own dishes at the Thiptara. For my part, I was happy just to eat (someone else’s cooking).

Jeffrey Lee