Where the RIVER NARROWS
 

Standing on the boardwalk of Terrasse Dufferin, I see the sun skimming the St Lawrence River. Boats glide on the wide ribbon of water,Ss barely disturbing its placid surface. The Le Château Frontenac hotel, over a hundred years old, towers behind me. Perhaps no other view gives a better perspective of the confluence of history and destiny in amazing Quebec City, Canada.

Where the river narrows is where the old city was founded by French explorer Samuel de Champlain in 1608. Thus the name Quebec, derived from an Algonkian Indian word ‘Kebec’ which means ‘the river narrows here’. A protective wall from those days surrounds the old city, which remains to this day.

This 93-square kilometre city is redolent of European charm, with quaint houses, red-awning cafes and shops with huge display windows. The entire old section of the town has been designated a UN World Heritage Site and abounds in culture and historical attractions such as La Citadelle and Musée de la Civilisation.

So much of the old town has been left untouched that it is sometimes said that every second house is of interest. Many structures date from the 1600s. Narrow cobbled streets depict old Europe with their cracks and rough edges – window panes reflecting with the irregularity of old glass, door knobs burnished by countless turnings and pavements that have absorbed the greyness of dirt and bleaching by the sun. It is not difficult to apply the superlative of ‘oldest’ to one’s discoveries in Quebec City. The musicality of the French language – predominantly spoken here – underscores the dissimilarity of the Québécois lifestyle to popular North American culture.

My daughter and I have a meal at Le Café de la Terrasse, a bustling restaurant at Le Château Frontenac. The waiters speak English and French but there is an unmistakable French bustle about the place. How utterly charming when our takeaway of unfinished food is presented to us with flair in an aluminium wrap. A doggy bag in ordinary circumstances – here savoir faire transforms it into something close to exquisite. 
I almost want to say something silly like C’est tres joli emballage. My four-year-old daughter rescues me with an infinitely more elegant Merci. To which the waiter gestures magnificently and throws out his arms in delight. Je vous en prie.

Le Château Frontenac itself merits more than passing mention. This immense hotel with copper roofs sits on a bluff overlooking Terrasse Dufferin and the St Lawrence River. First built in the late 19th century, this is one luxury product with an old world sheen – its gothic proportions belie the intimacy of its guest rooms that rein in any allusions to grandeur with simpler stylish chateau furnishings. The hotel carries the legacy of being the site of the historic Quebec Conferences of World War II which involved the then leaders of USA, UK and Canada.

Despite its charms, Quebec may be more remembered for being the seat of a tussle which nearly tore a country apart in 1995. Then, the French Canadians’ increasingly strident voice for secession culminated in two provincial referendums. The second referendum very nearly passed the resolution for Quebec province to unilaterally claim sovereignty (being narrowly defeated by 50.6 per cent). The roots of such a motivated push for separation lie in a perceived urgency to protect the language, culture and economic interests of French-speaking Canadians. In a larger sense, it represented the latest of many clashes between English Canada and French Canada that began in 1629 when the English attacked Quebec City.

Today, a walk on top of the old walls takes one on an amazing 4.6-kilometre experience around the old city. Originally meant to be ramparts from which battles could be fought, these walls have come to symbolise more recent battles to protect the cultural and linguistic integrity of Quebec province as a whole.

Secession fever has cooled for the moment. Notwithstanding that, one simply cannot imagine a Quebec without its temperament and present unique flavours. If the secessionists have contributed even a little bit to the steady and unhurried beauty of Quebec City today (and one suspects it is more than a little bit), forgiveness, if not gratitude, may well be the order of the day.

Jeffrey Lee

Visual Treats

rue de Petit-Champlain

Reputed to be the narrowest street in North America.

JA Moisan Épicier (699 rue Saint-Jean)

Known as the oldest grocery store in North America.

Fortifications of the old city

The only remaining walled city in North America.

La Citadelle

Completed in 1820, the fort stands on the highest point of Cap Diamant which overlooks the city.

L’ Îlot des Palais

Archaeological site of a palace dating from as early as 1669.

Le Château Frontenac (1 rue des Carrieres)

A truly exquisite hotel, in spite of its size (618 rooms). Get a suite overlooking the St Lawrence River. The river view deserves to be framed by the lovely windows of the guestrooms. Expect loads of French style.